Heading south from Copper Harbor, Michigan, I stopped in hazy afternoon sunlight in a small town near Ironwood. I walked Heidi, as I do whenever I stop, then moseyed over to a one-calendar hole-in-the-wall bakery and coffee shop (William Least Heat Moon in Blue Highways invented the calendar rating system for small town cafes), where I purchased a cup of watery Midwestern coffee and a doughy Danish, and consumed them under the watchful eyes of a couple of wiry local elders, probably with names like Earl and Vern.
